寻猪的田野 Pigs in the City（2023）
记忆是会伴随视觉、味觉归来的动物。在我的童年里，对猪与猪肉的恐慌和反胃久久未曾散去，这一不安总会寻找到它。
陈嘉宁以一场寻找之旅来面对它，从对苏坡地区的猪肉夜市长达一月的接触开始，到成都三环内猪肉的流动，在一个偏远的场镇里结束。最终，将所拍摄的图像与旅途中的地图互为拼贴，以寻求猪的现代性里新的地理边界，从而完成了一次释怀。

Memory is an animal that returns with sight and taste. In my childhood, there was a constant fear and nausea about pigs and pork, and this restlessness always found its way into it.
Mr. Chen confronts it with a search that begins with a month-long encounter with a pork night market in the Supo region and ends with the flow of pork inside Chengdu's Third Ring Road, in a remote farm town. In the end, the images captured were collaged with maps from the journey to seek new geographical boundaries in pig modernity, thus completing a release.

“寻猪之旅”的地图
Map of "Pig Hunt"

“苏坡猪肉市场”的摄影作品，展览现场
Photo of "Supo Pork Market", Exhibition site

犀浦场

在各大建设中的或建成的商业广场转着圈，好不容易才在马路的间隙里寻到冷清的犀浦综合市场。入门处两抹长长的白线先浮现，白线中间是光秃秃的马路和引导线，白线的尽头站着两位身着正服的保安。也许是我大摇大摆、身前挂大相机的姿态过于可疑，两位的视线迅速集中在了我身上，好在一路上我早已习惯。待我走上前，体态较胖的老保安先大声问我是来干嘛的，我表示是来拍照、写论文的学生。见他们的怀疑之色不退，我又指了指遥远的西北方向：“咱郫县川传学摄影的学生，来做社会实践的。”这下两位保安相视点了点头，但老保安还是喝令我去总经理办公室先申请。我很是郁闷，在办公室溜达一圈后发现无人，于是借机在门口和两位保安聊上天。婉拒了年轻保安递来的烟，他问我咋会想到来拍菜市场嘞，我笑着说这不都是烟火气，人多好拍嘛！他摇了摇头，我们这哪有人来？我见机发问，可惜他一问三不知，既不知道赶场，也不知道市场现状，只笑自己是外来人。老保安呆的久，他晃着身子摇头，说我都白搭，城市里哪有赶场？我只好苦笑，不再搭话，于是我们面面相觑，直到一脸疲惫的总经理不耐烦地挥手让我通过。

空荡，是这一大片菜市场给我的直观感受。和郊区的露天市场不同，这里的店铺林立、分区有序，但就是没有人气——没有卖家，也没有买家，一个卷帘门紧闭的菜市场。在这里，停放的车辆甚至都要比人多，我难以想象这里人来人往的样子。在香肠和紫红色灯光几乎没有的鲜肉区，我见到了唯一一家正在营业的猪肉摊。摊主阿姨见我走过来，立马从椅子上站起来，紧张地看向我，我尴尬地介绍自己的学生身份和拍摄作业，她的面色才缓和下来。田阿姨在这里营业了数年，从犀浦火热的老市场拆迁后，也跟着到了这边的新市场，据她所说，此时没有同行营业，是因为他们都去别的市场营业，傍晚才回来。“这边下午没生意啊，只有早上生意好，所以你该早上来的！”田阿姨笑道，在我的追问下，她解释了自己没有随同行行动的原因：“我靠熟客做生意嘛，有的（他/她）就下午才来！我家猪肉品质高，客源多！”她说完得意地笑起来，露出自信的神色。见我好奇，她又跟我科普起猪肉产业里的是是非非，比如猪肉的鄙视链——从苏坡猪肉的水货到她家的杂粮猪、粮食猪，菜市场里怎么赚钱——一本与顾客博弈的生意经等等。而当我为一些细节提出怀疑，她又毫不客气地反驳：“我从你们团结镇那边干到这里，跟你说，里头水深得很！”于是我又只好倾听了。见话题终于即将从发家史结束，我迅速接过话头：“那阿姨你晓得附近赶场的地方吗？”在她的迷惑里，我把赶场改为了“附近以前大的市场”，于是她指向了搬迁前的老市场。

在老市场毫无收获，这里已经被改造为服装贸易市场，四处只见义乌商品和策略性降价的秋季衣服。我仍然不甘心，于是兜兜转转到一处老小区，戴老花镜的大爷闻言撇了我两眼：“就是前面的地铁站。”我大喜，原来犀浦赶场的原址竟是地铁站前，被绿色铁皮围起的两处停车场。

也许是方便搭乘地铁的行人穿过，犀浦场的大门敞开，门前有一位嬢嬢坐在小马扎上正织着毛线，脚下是各类针织的鞋垫和饰品，在车流间显得颇为突兀。我兴奋地向嬢嬢询问：“嬢嬢好，这里是不是赶场的地方哇？”嬢嬢头也不抬，沉迷在眼前一针一线里，淡淡回道：“是噻！”见状不便发问，我继续深入市场。除了门口的嬢嬢，这里再无一人，入目都是车和过气的防疫标语。这里并列着三四栋红砖房，上面贴满各类小广告，不知建筑的实际用处，但看似并无人居住。在车群中间，我发现一片用废弃广告牌和杂物围起来的地方，走近一看，居然是一处整齐的菜地！绕小路穿过去，一条四处分叉的乱石丛生的小径浮现，我好似复行数十步的武陵渔人，豁然开朗。在菜地中间有一位阿姨，此时她正在给菜地施肥，见架势也知道是多年的庄稼人了，注意到我的突然出现，阿姨停下了手头的把式。我又开始了自我介绍。“您为啥在这里种菜呀？”我迫不及待地抛出我的问题，阿姨不解，“哪里不能种菜，没人用就种菜啊。”一番问询后，我才了解了犀浦场的现状，着急搬迁撤离的市场，却毫无用武之地，数月来落得个闲置的处境。我气愤这种不作为，阿姨却悠然道：“没人用，我们这些退了休的看不惯土地浪费，开始只有两三个，慢慢大家就开始分田地。喏，那边就是老张的菜叶，他都不乐意我们浇水。”阿姨指了指隔壁用统一的妇科医院广告牌围起来的菜地，里头是蔫蔫的绿菜叶。此时已过傍晚，下班的人潮打断了我们之间的聊天，人们仓促地钻出地铁口、穿过车群，从不往里头望一眼。

Seokpojang  

      In the major construction or completed commercial squares turn around, it is not easy to find the quiet Xipu comprehensive market in the gap of the road. At the entrance, two long white lines appeared first. In the middle of the white line was the bare road and the guide line. At the end of the white line stood two security guards in formal clothes. Perhaps my swaggering posture with a large camera in front of me was too suspicious, and their eyes quickly focused on me, but I had already gotten used to it along the way. When I came forward, the fat old security guard first asked me loudly what I was here for, and I said that I was a student who came to take photos and write papers. Seeing their skepticism, I pointed to the far northwest: "We Pixian Chuanchuan photography students, to do social practice." The next two security guards nodded to each other, but the old security guard still ordered me to go to the general manager's office to apply first. I was very depressed, after a walk around the office found no one, so I took the opportunity to chat with two security guards at the door. Refused the young security guard to pass the smoke, he asked me how I would think to shoot the market, I smiled and said that it is not all fireworks, people are good to shoot! He shook his head. Where are we coming from? I saw the opportunity to ask questions, but unfortunately he did not know anything, did not know the market, did not know the current situation, only laughing at himself as an outsider. The old security guard stayed for a long time, he shook his head and said that I was in vain, where in the city to drive? I smiled wryly and stopped talking, so we looked at each other until the weary general manager impatiently waved me through.

        Empty, is this large vegetable market to my intuitive feeling. Unlike open-air markets in the suburbs, it is lined with shops and orderly zoning, but it is simply not popular -- no sellers, no buyers, a wet market with closed rolling doors. Here, there are even more parked cars than people, and I can't imagine the people coming and going here. In the fresh meat section, where sausages and fuchsia lights were almost absent, I saw the only open pork stall. The stall owner's aunt saw me coming, immediately stood up from the chair and looked at me nervously. I awkwardly introduced my student identity and shooting homework, and her face eased down. Tian aunt has been in business here for several years, after the demolition of the hot old market in Xipu, she also followed the new market here, according to her, there is no peer business at this time, because they all go to other markets for business, and come back in the evening. "There is no business here in the afternoon, only good business in the morning, so you should come in the morning!" Tian aunt smiled, and under my questioning, she explained why she did not act with her peers: "I rely on regular customers to do business, and some (he/she) will come in the afternoon!" My pork is of high quality and many customers!" She smiled triumphantly and showed confidence. Seeing me curious, she told me about the rights and wrongs of the pork industry, such as the contempt chain of pork - from the parallel trade of Supo pork to her family's multi-grain pigs, grain pigs, how to make money in the wet market - a business game with customers and so on. And when I questioned some details, she retorted bluntly: "I worked from your Unity town to here, tell you, it's very deep in the water!" So I listened again. Seeing that the topic was finally about to end from the hair family history, I quickly took over the conversation: "That aunt do you know the place near the market?" In her confusion, I changed the drive to "the previous big market nearby", so she pointed to the old market before the relocation.

         With nothing to show for it at the old market, it has been transformed into a clothing trading market, full of Yiwu goods and strategically discounted autumn clothes. I still can't be reconciled, so go around to an old community, wearing reading glasses of the old man smell words turned my eyes: "is the front of the subway station." I am delighted that the original site of Xipu drive was actually two parking lots surrounded by green iron in front of the subway station.

         Perhaps to facilitate the passage of subway pedestrians, the gate of Xiepu field is open, there is a old aunt sitting in front of the pony tie is knitting wool, at the foot of all kinds of knitted insole and accessories, it is quite out of place in the traffic. I excitedly asked old aunt : "OK, is this the place to catch the show wow?" Old aunt also did not look up, addicted in front of the needle and line, light back: "is thiao!" I'm not asking questions. I'm going deeper into the market. Except for old aunt at the gate, there is no one here, and the sight is all about cars and outdated epidemic prevention slogans. There are three or four red brick houses, which are covered with various small advertisements, and the actual use of the building is unknown, but it does not seem to be inhabited. In the middle of the group of cars, I found a place surrounded by abandoned billboards and debris, a closer look, actually is a neat vegetable field! Around the path through the past, a bifurcated rocky path emerged, I like to walk dozens of steps Wuling fisherman, suddenly enlightened. There is an aunt in the middle of the vegetable field, at this time she is fertilizing the vegetable field, see the posture also know is many years of ploughman, noticed my sudden appearance, aunt stopped the hand. I started introducing myself again. "Why are you growing vegetables here?" I can't wait to throw my question, aunt puzzled, "where can't grow vegetables, no one uses vegetables ah." After some inquiries, I understood the current situation of Xipu field, anxious to move out of the market, but no use, a few months ended up in an idle situation. I was angry about this inaction, but my aunt leisurely said: "No one uses, we retired from the rest of the land is not used to waste, at first only two or three, slowly we began to divide the field." Well, that's Lao Zhang's vegetable leaves over there. He doesn't want us to water them." 
       
        Aunt pointed to next door with a unified gynecological hospital billboards surrounded by vegetable fields, inside is wilting green vegetable leaves. It was late afternoon, and the rush of people leaving work interrupted our conversation, rushing out of the subway and through the cars without looking inside.




土桥场

继续寻找附近的菜市场，地图将我引向了一家便民市场。便民市场是指坐落于不同社区的菜市场，以方便一定范围内居民的生活需求为主旨，这一主旨在近几年疫情猖獗的环境下受到更多的关注。便民市场的规模往往不大，但力求产品齐全。眼前的土桥便民市场就是一个范例，便民市场在小区居民楼楼下，同时安装了残疾人便携的通道。市场内同样有蔬菜区和鲜肉区，不过鲜肉摊位只有三四家，蔬菜摊位寥寥无几，调味和日杂的店铺只占了市场角落。麻雀虽小，五脏俱全，这是我对便民市场的第一印象。市场门口有一家香肠店，店门口高高挂着创始人女士的头像，与店内悬挂的香肠齐高。在这香肠底下，我和正忙里偷闲的阿姨聊了起来。“你是要写文章噻？那应该去那边的市场拍，那边人多，市场也大！”她指了指街对面的小树、砖墙和悬挂香肠的不锈钢架子。

顺着她指的方向，我边走边问，走了约三公里，穿过一家商城，在一片施工工地前，找到了一排商铺。这里的工地还未开工，只是打了围，大门虚掩。门前有七八家商铺，四五辆摊车，顾客寥寥无几。这些店铺种类丰富，有鞋店，粮油店，包子铺，面铺和茶叶铺等。巨大的工地面积，种类繁多的店铺和门前聚集的摊车，我意识到这里曾经是一个大菜市场，眼前所见所闻是它的废墟。在好心人的帮助下，我又一次得到了新的方向。

绕过绿皮围墙和土墙密布的拐角，在被移平的土地上，昔日的土家场就藏于这数片工地的缝隙间。我为这片市场的规模感到不可思议，也为它建立在裸露的工地之上，表现出来的完整、干净和热闹而震撼。土桥市场的一切都由轻钢搭建而来，与四周的荒地相融合，仿佛坚硬得不可摧毁。此时的市场热闹非凡，和安静的工地形成强烈的反差，人们拿着菜篮子或小推车，在这回字形的菜市中游走觅食。这里有的店铺大多都标上了老字号的招牌，或是在店名前加上“土桥”的名号，一种来自地方的认证。这里丰富的店铺和商品让人流连忘返，在和猪肉摊主的聊天中，我也得知这里就是土桥农贸市场，或者说这里的都是原先的店家们，它们从旧的地方拔根而起，又在临近土地扎下了根。

巡过市场，来到出口处。在大门处挂着“土桥临时便民服务点”的招牌，蓝底白字，让我从农贸市场的热闹里惊醒，一旁随意堆起的土砖刺眼，土桥场早早被拆除，这里只是临时存在的市场。我想到此时的苏坡场，竟与眼前的临时市场重叠，不同时空的场镇都在面临相同的处境。在恍惚中，我踩到了一位嬢嬢的大白菜，在她的拍打和惊呼中，我连忙道歉。嬢嬢原谅了我，我们交谈起来。我看向跟她一同摆摊的几位嬢嬢，这里的人流很多，她们的生意都很不错，可我的思绪却飘向施工后漫天黄沙中的一株株大白菜。嬢嬢接着说起，“我们都是从原来的市场过来的哇，以前很大的！”她指了指不远处的工地，那里只剩下一排商铺。“那这里以后不会被拆吗？”我忍不住地发问，嬢嬢笑着说：“被拆了也会有下一个噻！我们这里三六九赶场的人很多的，很热闹，你要来看。以前我们赶场各条大街都挤满了人，现在那条街上也是挤满了人，多好拍照啊！”说完嬢嬢收敛了一点笑容，声音变小，“以前城管都管，现在都不咋管了噻。”嬢嬢的乐观感染了我，对于赶场的想象驱散了我的小郁闷，我点点头，也笑着答应婆婆来日赶场。告别后，我离开了土桥场。

Earth bridge yard

        Continuing my search for a nearby wet market, the map led me to a convenience market. Convenience market refers to the food market located in different communities, with the purpose of facilitating the living needs of residents within a certain range, which has attracted more attention in the environment of rampant epidemic in recent years. The scale of the convenience market is often small, but strive to complete the product. The Tuqiao Convenience market in front of us is an example. The convenience market is downstairs in the residential building of the community, and it has installed a portable passage for the disabled. There are also vegetable and fresh meat sections in the market, but there are only three or four fresh meat stalls, few vegetable stalls, and seasoning and miscellaneous shops occupy only the corner of the market. Although the sparrow is small, the five viscera are complete, this is my first impression of the convenience market. There is a sausage shop at the entrance of the market, and the head of the founder woman is hung high in the doorway, as high as the sausage hanging in the store. Under the sausage, I chatted with my aunt, who was taking a break from her work. "Are you going to write an article? That should go to the market there, there are many people, the market is also big!" She pointed to the small trees across the street, the brick walls and the stainless-steel shelves on which the sausages were hanging.

       Following the direction she pointed, I walked and asked, walked about three kilometers, through a mall, in front of a construction site, found a row of shops. The construction site here hasn't started yet, only the fence is broken and the gate is ajar. There were seven or eight shops in front of the door, four or five stalls, and very few customers. There are many kinds of shops, such as shoe shops, grain and oil shops, dumpling shops, noodle shops and tea shops. The huge construction area, the wide variety of shops and the stalls gathered in front of the gate, I realized that this was once a big food market, and what I saw and heard was its ruins. With the help of kind people, I was once again given a new direction.

        Around the corner of the green wall and earth wall, in the flattened land, the former Tujia farm is hidden in the gaps between the several construction sites. I was struck by the sheer size of the market, and by how complete, clean and lively it was on an exposed site. Everything in the Tuqiao Market is made of light steel, which blends with the surrounding wasteland, as if it is too hard to be destroyed. At this time, the market is very lively, and the quiet construction site forms a strong contrast, people with baskets or carts, in this zigzagging vegetable market walk for food. Most of the shops here are marked with time-honored signboards, or add the name of "Earth bridge" in front of the store name, a kind of certification from the local. The abundance of shops and goods here makes people linger, in the chat with the pork stall owners, I also learned that here is the Tuqiao farmers market, or here are the original shops, they pulled roots from the old place, and put down roots in the adjacent land.

         Patrol the market to the exit. At the gate hung a "Tuqiao temporary service point for the people" sign, white characters on a blue background, let me wake up from the bustle of the farmers' market, the earth bricks piled up at random beside the dazzling, the Tuqiao field was dismantled early, here is only a temporary market. I thought of the Supo field at this time, overlapping with the temporary market in front of me, and the market towns in different time and space are facing the same situation. In a daze, I stepped on a old aunt cabbage. Amid her patting and exclaiming, I quickly apologized. Old aunt forgave me and we talked. I looked at the old aunt with her stall. There were a lot of people here, and their business was very good, but my thoughts drifted to the cabbage plants in the yellow sand after the construction. Old auntthen added, "We are all from the old market Wow, it used to be so big!" She gestured to a nearby construction site, where only a row of shops remained. "So it won't be torn down later?" I couldn't help asking, old auntsmiled and said: "There will be another one after being dismantled!" We have a lot of people here, very busy, you have to come to see. We used to drive to the streets are packed with people, now the street is also packed with people, how good to take pictures!" Then old aunt restrained a little smile, his voice became smaller, "Before the urban management are all tube, now are not so tube." Old aunt optimism infected me, for the imagination to drive away my small depression, I nodded, also smiled and promised her mother-in-law to drive the next day. After saying goodbye, I left the dirt bridge yard.




山泉镇

“站好扶稳咯！开始上山坡咯！小心跌倒哈！”公交车师傅用方言大声喊道，引起车里人的一番哄笑，我一时没听清楚，险些被大转弯甩倒。这是上龙泉山的唯一的公交车，此刻我在跟随山路摇摆。阳光正好，毫不吝啬地洒在半山腰，满山的叶子都在闪烁，五光十色恰如此时。山上马路如一条左右爬行向上的蝮蛇，行动莫测，沿路的景色也是各有不同，越往上走，人烟越少。眼前的风光节节呼啸而去，很快便到了山泉镇前。

一五八赶山泉镇，这是一个东南方的场镇。今天便是赶场日，我却在其中见不到烟火气，只见漫山遍野光秃秃的梅花。翻越长长的坡道，眼前的筒子楼、小广场和向上蔓延的老巷子，是这个镇子的主要居民区。询问数人无果，不论是八岁的孩童，还是散漫的年轻人，或是清洁阿姨，都不清楚啥叫赶场，只有保安大叔思索道：“你可以去那边公路路口看看，好像已经很久没有了噻！”顺着方向一路找去，终于见到一处菜市场。有保安大叔的信息在前，加上数次和赶场擦肩而过，我已是不抱希望可以看见赶场了。没想到在和水果摊阿姨的交谈里，赶场又一次浮现：“早上赶场啊，一五八赶场。”她见我这么高兴，又补充道：“早上人就很多，现在都撤走了。”好吧，虽然又错过，但不妨可以打听和观察。

这里的菜市场是典型的露天市场，其中有一片加盖了轻钢大棚，里面设立了鲜肉和蔬菜的摊位。正如阿姨所言，赶场的人们都早早回家或赶别处场去了，只有水果摊和蔬菜摊坚守，而摊主们也大多正在打瞌睡、玩手机，很是巴适。和摊主们闲聊，穿着短衫的阿姨调侃我道：“你应该去给那边吃席拍照！还能吃上一顿好饭哈哈！”在她的提醒下，我望向市场的一侧。大红色好似霸道地闯入菜市场的小门，在小镇简朴的色彩里添上一把喜庆和艳俗，一处露天的吃席自然又突兀地停在菜市场里。是我不解，阿姨更不解了：“时不时是会来（菜市场）摆呀，多热闹噢！”我这才感到自己对菜市场的认知固话，它不仅是贸易的场所，更是一处用于社交的公共空间。可以想象得到，在小镇上唯一的菜市场摆吃席，越是气派越有脸面！在宴席寥寥数人的好奇注视下，我还是没敢拿出相机拍摄，在摊主阿姨的取笑声里离开了山泉镇。

Mountain Springs

       "Stand still! Start going up the hill! Watch out for falling!" The bus master shouted loudly in dialect, causing people in the car to laugh, I did not hear clearly for a while, and was almost thrown down by a big turn. This is the only bus on Longquan Mountain, at the moment I am following the mountain swing. The sun just, not stingy sprinkled halfway up the mountain, full of leaves are flashing, colorful just like this time. The road on the mountain is like a pit viper crawling up about, unpredictable action, the scenery along the road is also different, the more you go up, the less human. The scenery in front of us roared away one after another, and soon came to the town of Mountain spring.

       “One,Five,Eight.” catch mountain spring town, this is a southeastern market town. Today is the day of the market, but I can't see the fireworks in it, only see the bare plum blossoms all over the mountains. Over the long ramp, the barrel buildings, small squares and old alleys that sprawl upward are the main residential areas of the town. Ask several people fruitless, whether it is an eight-year-old child, or a discursive young person, or a clean aunt, do not know what is called the market, only the security uncle thought: "You can go to the road junction there to see, it seems to have been a long time!" Follow the direction all the way to find, finally came to a wet market. With the information of the security uncle in front, plus several times and the drive by, I have no hope to see the drive. Did not expect in the conversation with the aunt of the fruit stall, the drive again emerged: "The morning drive ah, the 158th drive." She was so happy to see me, and added, "There were so many people this morning, and now they're all gone." Well, I missed it again, but I can ask and observe.

       The wet market here is typical of open-air markets, including a light-steel greenhouses with stalls of fresh meat and vegetables. As my aunt said, the people went home early or went elsewhere, only the fruit and vegetable stalls stuck, and most of the stall owners were dozing off and playing with mobile phones, which was very Barshi. Chatting with the stall owners, the aunt wearing a short shirt teased me: "You should go to take pictures for the dinner there!" And a good meal!" At her reminder, I looked to the side of the market. Big red like overbearing into the small door of the market, in the simple color of the town to add a festive and gaudy, an open-air dinner naturally and abruptly stopped in the market. Is I don't understand, aunt more puzzled: "From time to time will come to the (wet market) place ah, how lively oh!" Only then did I feel my understanding of the wet market, which is not only a place for trade, but also a public space for social interaction. As you can imagine, eating at the only food market in the town, the more grand the more respectable! Under the curious gaze of a few people at the banquet, I still did not dare to take out my camera and left Shanquan Town in the laughter of the aunt of the stall owner.



龙潭过渡集贸市场

在与青龙场的肉摊大哥交流后，龙潭寺便在我旅途的计划中了。据大哥所言，成都的北边应该只剩这一处还在赶场，在了解到具体的日期后，我专程一早就搭车前去。可两小时公交的颠簸也赶不上早早褪去的赶场，只留下了三四个摊贩和稀疏的人群。我纳闷自己在赶场这事情上的运气，好像跟记忆里的热闹人群绝缘，每回都落得人去楼空。我总只能站在空旷冷风中努力想象一阵一阵的人潮掠过各色缤纷百货的场面。

在闲逛和问询里，我了解到这里共分为三处市场：龙潭寺综合市场、龙潭过渡集贸市场以及一个老的服装市场，而赶场的位置便在三者中间的一大块空地上。龙潭寺综合市场是老市场，小巷盘根错节，向四周马路延伸。此时日照当空，热闹非凡，市场门前的服装店大喇叭高声道：“市场拆迁，全场两百元！”反反复复，与人群的喧闹声融为一道背景音。在我好奇询问下，卖卤味的阿姨笑道：“拆迁的明明是隔壁市场，关他这老市场的什么事情！都是骗人的！”市井里的狡黠常常让我感到啼笑皆非。市场是新鲜的，眼前一笼笼鲜活的土鸡鸭和带着点点土腥味的蔬菜，无疑就是最佳的例证。一问才知道，这里的鸡鸭现卖现宰，但大多顾客都拿回家自己养殖。在我观察市场的同时，也在被市场里的商贩们观察，我见逃不过，就表明自己学生的身份。没曾想大伙好奇的眼光又抛向我，两位叔叔笑嘻嘻地让我给邻居摊主拍照，邻居阿姨又连忙摆手拒绝，这让我很是局促，应付两句后就逃离了。走过老市场的巷铺，来到后门的大街，四处眺望，入目都是老旧的街铺，天空中影影绰绰的高楼仿佛与世隔绝。此时仍然还有一些来赶场的人，他们同样是附近的居民，各类农产品整齐地放在塑料布上，还有一捆捆的土鸡土鸭，一声不吭地伏在地面上。嬢嬢伯伯并不着急卖，偶尔有人路过便吆喝几声“帅哥美女，看看土鸡噻！”，冷清时就和其他人唠唠嗑，晒晒太阳，这一派悠哉光景令人羡慕。

“过渡”是令我浮想联翩的词语，它意味着巨大变化的即将到来，也仿佛是地方与附近的人在面临变化前的一剂预防针。今年是张姨在市场工作的第二十年，她的肉摊从来没缺过勤、缺过两，逐渐就成为了居民间交口称赞的“猪肉老字号”。“我从来没出过龙潭镇，就这附近几十里，你广东来的多稀罕看见啊！”张姨一边手里灌肠，一边亲切地和我交流，也许是看我年纪不大，她总会提到在外闯荡的孩子们，还有孩子在市场里的涂鸦。“不知道啊，年初才通知拆迁，政府都是乱弹琴！”提到老市场的拆迁，她罕见地露出气愤的神情，随着手上的动作，又慢慢恢复到平和：“我也不知道后面要去哪里，啥打算都还没有。”又来了一位老顾客，张姨熟练地取下一块猪肉，挑肉、切割、装袋一气呵成，过程中不忘唠嗑，聊顾客阿姨家的小孙子，聊得尽兴，再乐呵呵地多切几块送过去。在她们的交谈声里，我猛地感受到“拆除”二字的力量，这一自上而下，如同重锤般的判决如此无可抵挡，多么冷静凌厉。而这力量也从未顾忌具体的感情和个体的感受，所谓现代化的冲击，也是一场人际感情和当地群众记忆的大清洗。我想起在苏坡早市最后一夜拍摄的笑容，他们现在又在哪里呢？

Longtan transition market

       After communicating with the meat stall brother of Qinglongchang, Longtan Temple was on my trip plan. According to the elder brother, there should be only one place in the north of Chengdu that is still on the market, and after learning the specific date, I made a special trip to go there early in the morning by car. But the two-hour bus ride could not catch up with the early fading of the market, leaving only three or four vendors and a sparse crowd. I wondered if my luck in the business of going to the market seemed to be isolated from the lively crowds in my memory, and every time the house was empty. All I can do is stand in the open air and try to imagine the waves of people passing through the colorful department store.

      In wandering around and asking questions, I learned that there are three markets here: Longtan Temple Comprehensive Market, Longtan Transition Market and an old clothing market, and the location of the market is in a large open space between the three. Longtan Temple comprehensive market is the old market, the alleys intertwine and extend to the surrounding road. At this time, Rizhao in the sky, lively, the clothing store in front of the market loudspeaker loud: "The market demolition, all two hundred yuan!" Over and over again, and the noise of the crowd into a background sound. In my curious inquiry, the aunt who sold bittern said with a smile: "The demolition is clearly the next door market, and what is the matter with this old market!" It's all a lie!" The cunning of the market often makes me laugh. The market is fresh, in front of a cage of fresh local chickens and ducks and vegetables with a bit of earthy smell, is undoubtedly the best example. Just ask to know that the chickens and ducks here are sold and slaughtered, but most customers take home their own farming. While I was observing the market, I was also being observed by the vendors in the market, and I couldn't escape, so I showed my student identity. Did not want to everyone's curious eyes and threw at me, two uncles smiled and let me take a photo of the neighbor stall owner, and the neighbor aunt hurriedly waved his hand to refuse, which made me very embarrassed, and fled after two sentences. Walking through the alleys of the old market, coming to the street at the back door, looking around, entering the old street shops, the tall buildings in the sky seem to be isolated. There are still a few people who come to the market, they are also nearby residents, all kinds of agricultural products neatly placed on plastic sheets, and bundles of local chickens and ducks, silent on the ground. 嬢嬢 uncle is not in a hurry to sell, and occasionally someone passing by shouted a few "handsome and beautiful men, look at the chicken!" When it is cold, it chats with others and basks in the sun, which is enviable.

        "Transition" is a word that captures my imagination. It means that big changes are coming, and it's like a shot in the arm for the place and the people around it. This year is the 20th year of Zhang Aunt's work in the market, her meat stall has never been short, short of two, and has gradually become a "pork brand" praised by residents. "I have never been out of Longtan Town, just a few dozen miles around here, you come from Guangdong how rare to see ah!" Aunt Zhang, while holding enema, communicated with me kindly, perhaps because I was not old, she always mentioned the children who went abroad, and the graffiti of children in the market. "I don't know, the demolition was only notified at the beginning of the year, and the government is talking nonsense!" Referring to the demolition of the old market, she showed a rare expression of anger, and slowly recovered to peace with the action of the hand: "I do not know where to go behind, what plan has not yet." Another old customer, Aunt Zhang skillfully took off a piece of pork, pick meat, cut, bagged in one go, in the process do not forget to chat, talk about the customer aunt's grandson, chat, and then happily cut a few pieces sent to the past. In the sound of their conversation, I suddenly felt the power of the word "demolition", this top-down, like a heavy hammer judgment so irresistible, how calm and harsh. And this power never cares about specific feelings and individual feelings, the so-called impact of modernization is also a great cleansing of interpersonal feelings and the memory of the local masses. I think of the smile I took on the last night of the Supo morning market. 
        Where are they now?


青龙场

我从未来过成都的北边，但也早听闻“青龙场”中的江湖气，早早就期待上了。因为对北方的陌生，我对这里的场镇也毫无头绪，草草看了地图就一头闯入。青龙市场像极了儿时在广州天河见过的服装大市场，而事实上它也的确是大市场，汹涌的人潮带着大包小包的货物融合又分开。我没头没脑地在嘈杂声里寻找菜市场，问了卖小饰品的老板后才得知，青龙市场里并没有菜市场。“那这附近哪里有菜市场？”我一下焉了，郁闷地问道，老板给我指了指方向，我又重新启程。

老板最终将我指去另一座服装市场，走过两公里路的我越发郁闷了。被耍也是江湖气的一种，我在心里自我安慰道。好在事情很快迎来转机，在和天桥底下卖锅盔的大爷的问询里，他将我指向了青龙场。“我在这卖锅盔二十多年咯，这青龙场的事我最清楚。”我一边吃红糖锅盔，一边听大爷缓缓道来。“你找错地方了噻，青龙桥底下这个是百货市场，赶场得找菜市场。”大爷手里动作未停，一个个冒着热气锅盔即将出炉。“你要赶场，倒是挺稀奇，青龙场早没赶场的去处咯！”说完，大爷放置好锅盔，在递锅盔的间隙中，又给我指了路——青龙小区。

到达青龙小区，先发现这里四处都有“青龙场”的痕迹——青龙场总店，龙城，云龙路......我深信是来对地方了，疲倦一扫而空，内心振奋！可这里也没有赶场的痕迹，路边的商贩都很少见，多的是大商场和超市。据大爷所说，青龙小区这一带都是以前赶场的去处，可我目能所及都是大厦和商铺，难道是一点痕迹都没有能留下？多方问询以后，小区的门卫跟我说，那边的一家益民菜市就是以前赶场的地方。我心里发慌，反复和门卫大哥确认，把他问恼了，骂道：“我看了十几年门还能不清楚？”

这家益民菜市与其他便民菜市并没有区别，没有热闹的门前小贩，没有老市场的大规模，没有江湖气，只是普普通通的菜市。我感到失望，还是坚持着进去看看。此时将近七点，肉摊都早早打烊，紫红色灯光里，只有一位中年商贩在摊前刷抖音，不时有笑声传出。我上前询问，这里是否有赶场？大哥放下手机，看了我几眼，也许把我当作研究的学生。十几年前就在这里，大哥作沉思状，以前那边大街到这边马路，都在赶，热闹得很。跟着他手指的方向转移视线，我看到了一片灯火通明的商铺和沉默流淌的河水。

Qinglong Chang

      I have never been to the north of Chengdu, but I have long heard of the river and lake in the "Green Dragon Farm" and have looked forward to it. Because of the stranger to the north, I have no clue about the town here, so I rushed into the map. The Qinglong Market looks like the big clothing market I saw in Tianhe, Guangzhou, when I was a child, and in fact it is a big market, the surging crowds of people with bags of goods merge and separate. I looked for a vegetable market in the noise without a clue, and only after asking the owner who sold small ornaments did I learn that there was no vegetable market in the Qinglong Market. "And where is a wet market around here?" I then how, depressed asked, the boss pointed me to the direction, I started again.
The boss finally pointed me to another clothing market, and after two kilometers, I became more and more depressed. Being played is also a kind of river and lake gas, I comforted myself in my heart. Fortunately, things soon ushered in a turning point, in and under the bridge to sell guokui uncle in the inquiry, he pointed me to the green dragon farm. "I have been selling Guolui here for more than 20 years, and I know the matter of this Green Dragon farm best." I eat brown sugar Guokui, while listening to grandpa slowly. "You've got the wrong place. This is a department store under Qinglong Bridge. You have to find a vegetable market." Grandpa hand action did not stop, a steaming pot helmet is about to come out. "You want to go to the court, it is very strange, Qinglong Court has no place to go to the court!" After saying that, Grandpa placed a good Guokui, in the gap between handing Guokui, and gave me the way - Qinglong community.

      Arrive at Qinglong small area, first found here everywhere there are traces of "Qinglong Farm" - Qinglong Farm Main Store, Longcheng, Yunlong Road...... I am convinced that I have come to the right place, tired away, heart excited! But there is no trace of the market, roadside vendors are rare, many are big shopping malls and supermarkets. According to Grandpa, this area of Qinglong Community is where the market used to go, but as far as I can see, there are buildings and shops, is there no trace can be left? After multiple inquiries, the doorman of the community told me that a Yimin vegetable market over there was the place where the market was driven before. I panicked in my heart, repeatedly confirmed with the guard brother, asked him angry, and cursed: "I have seen the door for more than ten years can not be clear?"

      There is no difference between this Yimin vegetable market and other convenient vegetable markets, there is no lively front vendors, there is no large-scale old market, there is no river and lake gas, just an ordinary vegetable market. Disappointed, I insisted on going in. At this time, nearly seven o 'clock, the meat stalls are closed early, purple light, only a middle-aged seller in front of the stall brush Tiktok, from time to time there is laughter. I asked if there was a fair here. Big brother put down his phone and looked at me a few times, perhaps treating me as a research student. More than ten years ago, I was here, and my big brother was meditating. Before, from the street to the road on this side, I was rushing, and it was very lively. Following the direction of his finger, I looked away and saw a sea of brightly lit shops and a silent river.



花桥集

新津地处市郊，是近几年成都撤县设区的区域之一，还未见高楼大厦拔地起，此时油菜花田正在这片旷野盛放，黄灿灿的，路上一阵好风光。在老旧居民楼间的小道旁的市场里，我猜想这里的广阔与赶场的联系，却打消在数次无结果的问询里；在连接起二三市场的路口，我想象小镇里赶场的光景，呼啸而过的警笛声打断了我的幻想：这里并没有人来赶场，只有光洁的道路和整齐的商铺；在一处老旧的菜市场，我和摊车的老板交谈，他骂道摆摊那也得交停车费。此时我意识到，赶场除了购买东西的居民、售卖东西的老板外，还有市场管理者、监管人员的重要存在，他们是这一处公共空间形成的推动或营造、阻扰的人物。在这三方的微妙平衡下，形成了赶场这一经济和文化活动，倘若有一方遗忘或缺失，那赶场要么无法继续，要么沦为一处居民深受其害的马路市场。

我决定往更偏远的市郊前进，以便更好地描绘出此处赶场的现状。实际上，在有限的成都地区场镇的纪录里，可能由于是地方的偏远、信息的阻塞，我并没有发现新津场镇的信息，也无从得知何处有场。但在数次对于场镇的观察中，我意识到赶场是一种日常的经济活动，它意味着农民最基本的物质需要、社交需要，约定俗成的乡约也让赶场逐渐落地，成为一处不同地区之间居民互通有无的重要场所。它并不只在某地的文化与历史中浮现，而是一种普遍现象。场在不同地理上的面貌也并不一致，但在“农改超”和线上电商、文明城市建设的背景下，它们都面临改变。

在花桥场站下车，再往前就是翠绿连绵的覃坟山了。绕了不少冤枉路，我终于找到了这里的菜市场——眼前一处门匾已改，正准备建为商业街的露天老菜市。市场辽阔，四周都是低矮的居民楼，从数处老屋的土墙上可以看出市场的存在之久远。从门口处的精品火锅店到出口处的热闹露天地摊，市场内的是“搬迁大折扣”的商场旗帜、紧闭的卷帘门和一台静止不动的推土机。风吹动“大折扣”旗帜，露出背后商场斑驳的“欢迎光临”，和空无一人的大商场，继续向前走，则是一排排安静的商铺，再往前望，就变成了数家热闹的摊子和门可罗雀的饭馆。这种差异使我困惑，在和居民的对话里，我逐渐了解到市场改建的目的和租金上涨的事实。我无法想象这里的赶场，只好诉诸于亲历者的描述。在支起数个木架的大棚下，我与卖衣服的王阿姨交谈，她向我描述了早晨的光景：这大棚下的每个架子，都能挂满了衣服哩！

Flower bridge set

       Xinjin is located in the suburbs of Chengdu in recent years, is one of the districts of the county, has not seen high-rise buildings up, at this time rapeseed flower field is blooming in this wilderness, yellow, a good scene on the road. In the market on the side roads between the old residential buildings, I suppose its wide connection with the market was lost in several fruitless inquiries; At the intersection connecting the second and third markets, I imagined the scene of the market in the small town, and the whistling of the police interrupted my fantasy: there was no one to drive to the market, only clean roads and neat shops; In an old wet market, I talked to the owner of a car stall, and he scolded me for having to pay parking fees. At this time, I realized that in addition to the residents who buy things and the bosses who sell things, there are also important market managers and supervisors, who are the figures who promote or create and hinder the formation of this public space. In the delicate balance of these three parties, the formation of the market, the economic and cultural activity, if one party is forgotten or missing, the market can not continue, or become a road market where residents suffer deeply.

        I decided to head for the more remote suburbs to get a better picture of what it was like to drive here. In fact, in the limited records of market towns in Chengdu, I did not find any information about Xinjinchang Town, nor could I know where there was a market, perhaps due to the remoteness of the place and the obstruction of information. However, after several observations of the market town, I realized that driving the market is a daily economic activity, which means the most basic material needs and social needs of farmers. The conventional village contract also makes the market gradually landing, becoming an important place for residents in different regions to exchange what they have. It doesn't just appear in the culture and history of one place, but is a universal phenomenon. The appearance of the field in different geographical areas is not consistent, but under the background of "agricultural transformation" and online e-commerce and civilized city construction, they are facing changes.

         Get off at the flower bridge site station, and then go ahead is the green and continuous Qin Cemetery Mountain. After going around a lot of wrong roads, I finally found the market here - in front of me, a door plaque has been changed and is preparing to build an open-air old vegetable market as a commercial street. The market is vast, surrounded by low residential buildings, and the existence of the market can be seen from the earth walls of several old houses. From the boutique hot pot restaurant at the entrance to the bustling open-air stall at the exit, the market is filled with "relocation discount" mall flags, closed rolling doors and a stationary bulldozer. The wind blows the "big discount" flag, revealing the mottled "Welcome" of the shopping mall behind it, and the empty shopping mall, continuing to walk, there are rows of quiet shops, and looking forward, it becomes a few busy stalls and crowded restaurants. This difference confused me, and in conversations with residents, I gradually learned about the purpose of the market remodeling and the fact that rents were rising. I couldn't imagine the rush here, so I had to resort to descriptions from people who had seen it. Under the greenhouses with several wooden frames, I talked with Aunt Wang, who sold clothes, and she described to me the scene in the morning: Every shelf under the greenhouses can be hung full of clothes!