厨子列传Biography of the Cook(2024)
在上海,饮食文化的多元和丰富性令人惊奇, 似乎食物风味的流动、汇聚、包容、共生,共同构成了上海日常生活的多样性。
在本次上海的驻地中,陈嘉宁以灵岩南路上从外地来到上海创业的餐饮业经营者们为对话主体,在厨子们的食物中带有两个地方的文化和风味。家乡食物的味道、手艺是厨师们的立身之本,也成为厨子们在他乡感受故乡的载体。
厨师们手机里拍摄的家乡的照片和上海的照片引发了陈嘉宁的好奇,在他们的食物和照片之中,迁徙的经历、故土的情结和城市的视角重叠,是一种在当下交织的味觉。他试图给这一故事中混乱且丰富的味觉图像化——以拼贴的方式来呈现。
In Shanghai, the diversity and richness of food culture is amazing. It seems that the flow, convergence, inclusiveness and symbiosis of food flavors together constitute the diversity of Shanghai's daily life. In this residence in Shanghai, Chen Jianing takes the restaurant operators who have come to Shanghai from other places to start their own businesses on Lingyan South Road as the subject of dialogue, and brings the cultures and flavors of the two places into the food of the chefs. The taste and craftsmanship of hometown food are the foundation of chefs, and also become the carrier for chefs to feel their hometown in a foreign land. The chefs' mobile phone photos of their hometowns and Shanghai sparked Chen's curiosity that in their food and photos, the experience of migration, the complex of their hometown and the perspective of the city overlap, a kind of taste that is intertwined in the present. He tried to visualize the chaotic and rich taste of the story - in the form of a collage.
陈师傅的本味
陈少均在上海的第十年,他打算把川菜店转型做四川汤锅和自助快餐,中午为在灵 岩南路上班的年轻人做现炒快餐,晚上为下班后寻一处闲聊去处的人们做边吃边谈的汤 锅。“重要的是川菜里的二十四味,不是让大家只觉得麻和辣,味道是非常丰富的。”初 见面时,他侃侃而谈起自己对于家乡菜的理解,眼神发亮,厨子有力的双掌在身前随之 舞动,带起一阵阵风。随后,他谈起家乡彭州仿佛永恒不变的绿水青山,和在家乡的朋 友们安稳踏实的生活:“(家里)我呆不住啊,在外面待习惯了。那边太舒服了,容易没 得斗志。”他年少时期从军,又屡屡错过升官之路,常自嘲和当官没有缘分。而后离开 彭州,走上厨师之路。陈少均离开彭州时仍然年轻,再次回到彭州时已到中年。
生命里的每次选择都塑造了陈少均,从兰州的面食里走出,在粤菜里学习食材本味, 又在兜兜转转中来到上海回到川菜中。
...
“最开始我在浦西做酸辣汤,开着一辆小摊车,卖得特别好!那时候来的很多都是高级 白领,开着车来吃酸辣汤的。”回忆起十年前刚到上海的光景,厨子豪爽地笑起来。
“在外滩、在市区的很多饭店我都做过厨师,说实话是一个很锻炼人的过程,慢慢就知 道自己喜欢做什么了。”
“ 流动多了,还是稳定些好啊。找了好长时间,落在了浦东这里。店里就是小小一间, 做的都是小碗菜。我们是这条街上最早做小碗快餐的店家,一到中午顾客特别多。这么 多年过去了,还有人来问我还做不做小碗菜。”
“为什么做小碗菜?说实话,做小碗菜就是因为很多人有选择恐惧症,很多字你多了人 也看不明白、挑不过来。人人都有选择恐惧症,所以我想不如把所有的菜都端出来,看 到啥就能吃啥。”
“头五年,我们还是一间小店君德来,然后店铺扩张,我们从君德来变成双陈记,开始 做烤鱼、做传统川菜。”
...
在双陈记里,他和我们讲起这间店最开始的故事,一点一滴的记忆都特别清晰。与 上海相关的记忆不算太坏,它与店里来来往往的客人们相关,也与妻子、女儿和刚刚出 锅的菜相关。
父亲,移民,厨子,是双陈记的关键词,也是陈哥在上海所面临的处境——女儿未落地的户口、漂泊中的身份困境、快餐化趋势下的正宗川菜认同。我们曾在成都的玉林 会面,那里的餐饮让他大受震撼:“餐饮的装潢还可以这么做,这么多人都在大胆地尝 试自己的风格!成都的变化好大啊!”在一路喋喋不休的游览后,陈哥更加强调起自己 要坚持去做的东西,“我要做食材本味,要做川菜风味,还要有健康的餐饮理念,要做 有文化的东西。”厨子身上固执般的坚持成为陈哥应对自身处境的一种方法,而不同时 期对食物的态度也成为其生命经验的重要部分。
双陈记来自于陈哥对狄更斯小说的理解,也源于他和熟客们之间的缘分和羁绊。“英 国那写小说的,不是说两个城市的人嘛,我在上海也是这样。”我补充道:“您这是从成 都到上海来,又在做菜的时候从上海回去成都。”他笑着连连说对。在双陈记里,一切 好像又刚刚开始。
Master Chen's original taste
Chen Shaojun's tenth year in Shanghai, he plans to transform the Sichuan vegetable shop into a Sichuan soup pot and buffet fast food, noon for the young people who work in Lingyan South Road to make fresh fried fast food, evening for people who are looking for a place to chat after work to make a soup pot while eating and talking. "The important thing is the 24 flavors in Sichuan cuisine. It's not just numbness and spicy. The flavors are very rich." When we first met, he talked eloquently about his understanding of the cuisine of his hometown, his eyes shining, the powerful hands of the cook dancing in front of him, causing a gust of wind. Later, he talked about the eternal green mountains and rivers in his hometown of Pengzhou, and the stable and practical life of his friends in his hometown: "I can't stay (at home), I'm used to staying outside." It's too comfortable over there. It's easy to get discouraged." He joined the army when he was young, and repeatedly missed the road to promotion, often self-deprecating and no fate. Then he left Pengzhou to become a chef. Chen Shaojun was still young when he left Pengzhou and reached middle age when he returned to Pengzhou.
Every choice in life has shaped Chen Shaojun, from Lanzhou pasta out, in Cantonese food to learn the original taste of ingredients, and in the circle to Shanghai to return to Sichuan cuisine.
...
"At the beginning, I made hot and sour soup in Puxi, driving a stall car, which sold particularly well!" At that time, many of them were senior white-collar workers who came to eat hot and sour soup in their cars." Recalling the time when he first arrived in Shanghai ten years ago, the cook smiled.
"I have worked as a chef in many restaurants on the Bund and downtown. To be honest, it is a very training process. Gradually I find out what I like to do."
"It's more fluid, it's better to be stable. After looking for a long time, I landed here in Pudong. The shop is just a small one, and all the dishes are small bowls. We are the first to do small bowls of fast food in this street, one to the noon customers are particularly large. After all these years, people still ask me if I still make small bowls."
"Why do you make small bowls? To be honest, doing small bowls of food is because many people have a fear of choice, and many words you can't see and pick. Everyone has a phobia of choice, so I thought I might as well put all the dishes out and eat everything in sight."
"For the first five years, we were a small shop, Jundelai, and then the store expanded, and we changed from Jundelai to Shuangchen Ji, and started cooking grilled fish and traditional Sichuan cuisine."
...
In the double Chen record, he told us the story of the beginning of this store, and every bit of memory is particularly clear. The memories associated with Shanghai are not too bad. They are related to the customers who come and go in the store. They are also related to the wife and daughter and the dishes that have just come out of the pot.
Father, immigrant, cook, is the key words of double Chen, but also the situation Chen brother is facing in Shanghai - his daughter's hukou, the identity dilemma in the drift, and the identification of authentic Sichuan cuisine under the trend of fast food. We met in Yulin, Chengdu, where he was struck by the dining: "The decor can still do this, so many people are daring to try their own style!" Chengdu has changed so much!" After a long tour, Brother Chen emphasized what he should insist on doing, "I want to do the original taste of ingredients, to do Sichuan cuisine, but also have a healthy catering concept, to do cultural things." The cook's stubbornness became a way for Brother Chen to cope with his situation, and his attitude towards food at different times became an important part of his life experience.
"Double Chen Records" comes from Brother Chen's understanding of Dickens' novels, and also from the fate and bond between him and his regular customers. "The English writer of novels doesn't mean people from two cities, and so do I in Shanghai." I added, "You are coming from Chengdu to Shanghai, and you are going back from Shanghai to Chengdu when you are cooking." He smiled and said it again and again. In the double Chen story, everything seems to have just begun again.
老付的一碗面
“老付我在上海的二十几年,靠的全是店里这一碗面呐。”随后老付和我自嘲起来, 挺着大肚子乐呵道:“你看我,不像陈师傅会这么多把式,呼呼地全是手艺。”“那说明 您这做面地手艺精湛!那面做起来也能吊起来人胃口哈。”我也笑眯眯回应道,一句夸 赞让老付更高兴了,连忙叫我老弟。
老付是灵岩南路上红烧牛肉面店的老板,也是这条街上另一家红烧牛肉面店老板的 朋友。在他看来,做生意做人就跟和热水面团一样,要揉一揉感情,洒一洒照顾,晾一 晾关系,顾客来了都是朋友,同行来了也是朋友。“我们做点小生意的,全靠熟人来照 顾,都得靠这点口碑来生活。”一坐下,老付就摆起了龙门阵:“你看我这小店,来这里 吃饭的十有八九是几天前刚来这吃饭的,那都是熟客和朋友嘛!”我也笑着接上,“那您 这是老店,大家都相信你的味道和品质啊。”老付摆了摆头,“那些是一定的,但主要还 是感情!朋友就是要有感情的联系,我们互相照顾嘛。”
每次见到老付,他要么骑上小电动车准备出发,要么刚刚停下电动车,圆滚滚的身 材在马路边也很显眼。路过的顾客都爱和他打招呼,每每他都能准确叫出客人们的名字, 停下车把招呼一一打过去。从社区里的家长里短到附近每个小孩,他都熟络于心,仿佛 他这里就是社区的中心,一个路边的公共空间。面馆里的人们也愿意和老付聊,一碗面 总能吃到话题结束,而老付也愿意在空闲时刻笑眯眯地听着,就坐在客人的周围。老付 也总是很忙,极少的时间呆在柜台前面,要么在后厨揉面干活,要么去和客人聊天,乐 此不疲。
有一次隔壁按摩店来找老付,要了一碗面:“老付!二两牛肉面,加个煎蛋,老规 矩!”老付笑着应下,转头抄起锅来。油热了起来,他敲碎蛋,蛋液流入热油里滋滋冒 声。我问老付啥是老规矩,他拿起锅铲在热油里的蛋划拉了个小口,蛋液分开,像颗爱 心一样。“她家客人过生日,我做颗爱心庆祝一下哩。”朋友的熟客,也是朋友。友谊是 老付的关键词。
老付的老家在河南汝县,他给我看手机里的相册,里面是他在家乡九峰山拍摄的照 片。“跟我要啥照片啊,我们没文化的都不怎么拍照的啊。”老付不解道,但还是和我介 绍起家乡的景点。从八仙棚到栏杆上的一抹紫罗兰,仓促回乡的春日留在了照片里,老 付眼里的家乡似乎是由连绵不断的山连起来的。
Lao Fu a bowl of noodles
"Lao Fu I lived in Shanghai for more than 20 years, relying on this bowl of noodles in the store." Then Lao Fu and I laughed at ourselves and said happily with a big belly: "You see me, unlike Master Chen, who will have so many hands, huhuhudi is all craft." "That shows that you are very skillful in making noodles! That side will whet someone's appetite." I also smiled in response, a praise let the old pay more happy, hurriedly called my brother.
Lao Fu is the owner of a braised beef noodle shop on South Lingyan Road and a friend of the owner of another braised beef noodle shop on the street. In his view, doing business as a person is like and hot water dough, to knead feelings, sprinkle a sprinkle to take care of, a drying relationship, customers are friends, peers are friends. "We run a small business, we rely on acquaintances to take care of us, and we all have to live on this word of mouth." As soon as he sat down, Lao Fu set up a phalanx: "Look at my shop, nine out of ten people who come here to eat have just come here a few days ago, and they are all regular customers and friends!" I also smiled, "Then you are an old shop, everyone believes in your taste and quality." Old Fu swung his head, "Those are certain, but mainly feelings!" Friends are meant to have an emotional connection. We look out for each other."
Every time I see Lao Fu, he either rides a small electric car ready to start, or just stopped the electric car, and his round figure is also very prominent on the roadside. Passing customers love to greet him, often he can accurately call the guests' names, stop the car to greet one by one. From the parents in the community to every child in the neighborhood, he is familiar with the heart, as if he is the center of the community, a public space by the road. The people in the noodle shop are also willing to talk with Lao Fu, a bowl of noodles can always eat to the end of the topic, and Lao Fu is also willing to listen to the idle moment with a smile, sitting around the guests. Lao Fu is also always busy, rarely spending time in front of the counter, either kneading noodles in the kitchen or chatting with guests.
Once the massage shop next door came to Lao Fu, asked for a bowl of noodles: "Lao Fu! Two beef noodles, with a fried egg, the old rules!" Lao Fu smiled and responded, turning his head to copy the pot. When the oil became hot, he cracked the egg, which sizzled into the hot oil. I asked Lao Fu what is the old rule, he picked up the spatula in the hot oil of the egg scratched a small mouth, egg liquid separated, like a love heart. "Her guest's birthday, I do a love to celebrate it." A friend's frequent guest is also a friend. Friendship is the key word for Lao Fu.
Fu, who is from Ruxian county in Henan province, shows me a photo album on his phone, which shows photos he took in his hometown of Jiufeng Mountain. "Ask me for pictures. We don't take pictures because we are uneducated." Lao Fu did not understand, but still introduced the scenic spots of his hometown to me. From the eight imbecility shed to a speck of violets on the railing, the spring days of hasty return to the hometown remain in the photo, and the hometown in Lao Fu's eyes seems to be connected by continuous mountains.
饺子皮里的根
山东饺子店里的饺子来自一处丰饶的土地,那里是老赵和于姐(化名)的家乡临沂。 在饺子店靠内厨的桌子,是于姐每天最常待的地方。每天早上八点和下午三点的空闲时 间里,她都坐在这里包饺子,手掌捻起翻动,我们的对话也是从这里开始。
饺子皮是提前撵好的,放入冷冻柜,隔天便拿出来包馅儿。新鲜的肉馅放在于姐的 左手边,饺子皮在身前,右手边是装饺子的铁盘,还有一杯刚刚泡上的浓茶,这就是于 姐一天工作的开始。在手心的饺子皮上抹一勺肉馅,随后将皮向上轻轻一提、一捻、一 掐、一摁,一枚饱满的饺子就完成了。“这跟俺们那边的包法不一样。”面向我的好奇,
于姐笑着说起来:“现在这种包法都是求快,方便点。家里的都跟小月牙似的,两角弯 弯。”饺子很快密密麻麻挤满了铁盘,重新放入冰冻柜里,继而又拿出一个空盘。谈到 在上海的生活,于姐撇撇嘴说道:“这地方没啥好的,吃嘛都甜,酱又很多,我们还是 习惯自己做饭吃。天气也不如我们那里舒服,咋待都不习惯啊。”山东饺子店在南路的 第五年,上海依然是陌生的。“孩子也在上海工作啊,但是太累了,在上海的压力太大 了。”话语流转,手指未停顿,思绪却回到家乡的土地上。“我们那边吃啥都好吃啊,羊 肉的羊肉的味道,牛肉有牛肉的块头,馆子里的菜都特香。”聊到家常,饺子是家乡人 人会做的美食,也是于姐赖以生存的一项手艺。“我是家里包饺子最好的(笑),皮薄馅 大、动作又很快。”她笑了笑,又看向我:“要不我下锅给你尝尝?看看我的手艺怎么样。”
吃完饺子咬了蒜,于姐回去后厨,我和乐呵的老赵聊起天。在和老赵的聊天里,家 乡的这一盘饺子便是属于他的骄傲:“俺们临沂的饺子那就是最正宗的饺子!别看饺子 这么小,里面都是我们那的文化。”老赵乐呵呵的,给我看起抖音里山东饺子的视频, 视频里的饺子是中华文化包容的象征,也成为中国重要的美食符号。老赵唠嗑起来就无 边无际,开始是在上海的山东老乡互相帮衬中,饺子是大家联系起来的重要象征,老乡 们也都在上海各处开饺子馆;接着是饺子的吃法,那一点醋和一口蒜可谓是饺子的灵魂; 最后是饺子和上海馄饨、广东云吞的重要区别:“山东饺子实在!没有那么多弯弯绕绕 的算盘。”客人们纷纷到了,我们才将话放下。
老赵喜欢看抖音,在抖音里看家乡的烟火秀,来来往往的旅客和他们拍下的临沂风 光形成了一扇通往乡土的几英寸小窗口。老赵自己也会拍下自家饺子的制作流程放上抖 音:“多好啊,我们的饺子就该被更多的人看到。”视频里,于姐粗粝的沾着面粉的双手 沉稳而流畅,在明亮的早晨里摊开面皮,开始一天的工作。
The root inside the skin of the dumpling
The dumplings at Shandong Dumpling shop come from a rich land in Linyi, the hometown of Lao Zhao and Sister Yu (not her real name). The table in the kitchen near the dumpling shop is where Yu Jie spends most of her time every day. Every day at eight in the morning and three in the afternoon, in her spare time, she sat here making dumplings, palms twirling, and our conversation began here.
Dumpling skin is put in the freezer in advance, and the stuffing is taken out the next day. The fresh meat is on Sister Yu's left hand, the wrappers are in front of her, and on her right hand is an iron plate filled with dumplings and a cup of strong tea. This is the beginning of Sister Yu's work day. In the palm of the dumpling wrapper with a spoonful of meat filling, then the skin upward gently lift, twist, pinch, press, a full dumpling is completed. "It's different from the way we pack in our country." To my curiosity,
Yu Jie smiled and said: "Now this bag method is for fast, convenient." All the ones at home are like little crescent moons, with two curved corners." The dumplings were soon packed tightly around the iron plate, placed back in the freezer, and then brought out another empty plate. Talking about life in Shanghai, Sister Yu skimmed her mouth and said, "This place is not good, the food is sweet, and the sauce is a lot, we are still used to cooking and eating." The weather is not as comfortable as ours. I'm not used to it." In the fifth year of Shandong Dumpling Shop on South Road, Shanghai is still unfamiliar. "The child also works in Shanghai, but it's too tiring and the pressure in Shanghai is too great." Words flow, fingers do not stop, thoughts return to the land of home. "Everything tastes good over there. The lamb tastes like lamb, the beef looks like beef, and the food is delicious." Talking about home, dumplings are the food that everyone in my hometown will do, and it is also a craft that I rely on for survival. "I am the best dumpling maker in my family (laughs), with thin skin and big stuffing and fast movements." She smiled and looked at me again: "Shall I cook for you to taste?" Let's see how I do."
After eating dumplings bite garlic, in the elder sister back to the kitchen, I and happy old Zhao chat. In the chat with Lao Zhao, this plate of dumplings in his hometown is his pride: "We Linyi dumplings that is the most authentic dumplings! Although the dumplings are so small, they are full of our culture." In a happy mood, Zhao showed me the video of Shandong dumplings on Douyin. The dumplings in the video are a symbol of tolerance in Chinese culture and have become an important symbol of Chinese cuisine. In the beginning, in Shanghai, the Shandong villagers help each other, dumplings are an important symbol of our connection, and the villagers are also in Shanghai to open dumpling houses; Then there is the way to eat dumplings, that a little vinegar and a mouthful of garlic can be described as the soul of dumplings; Finally, the important difference between dumplings and Shanghai wonton and Guangdong Wonton: "Shandong dumplings are real! There are not so many winding abacuses." When the guests arrived, we stopped talking.
Zhao likes to watch Tiktok, where he watches his hometown's fireworks show. The tourists and their photos of Linyi form a small window to the countryside. Zhao himself would take pictures of his dumpling making process and post them on Tiktok: "How wonderful, our dumplings should be seen by more people." In the video, Yu's rough, flour-stained hands are steady and smooth, spreading out the dough on a bright morning to start the day's work.
疆味热浪
疆味串来到灵岩南路的时间临近一年,这也是米热阿迪力来到上海的第一年。我们 的对话里,对于上海天气的反复无常、清淡乏味的上海食物时常被提及,这时候他总是 会回忆起在北京读书时候的大鱼大肉,再用标准的普通话讲起北京的烧烤、朋友和干燥 的天气。
阿迪力与我同龄,他声称也只比我早毕业了一年,从北京的商科毕业后经历了考研 和摆烂,调整状态后便在上海从事起餐饮行业。“一到上海,我就觉得应该要把烤馕和 烧烤带到这里来。”讲到最开始的决定,阿迪力觉得很自然:“因为这是我家乡的东西, 是我的一部分,也是一种特色啊。”从疆味串餐厅进入,墙壁上都是维吾尔族的几何纹 饰图案,像极了像素雪花从天花板飘下来,又在新疆烧烤的浓烈气味里定格,随后被熏 黑。餐厅里从桌布到天花顶的圆形拱桥都充斥着强烈的维吾尔族装饰风格,门里门外像 是身处不同的地方。在餐桌上,我和阿迪力吃着自家的烧烤,他很高兴豪爽,我们从北 京的古建筑聊到上海的黄浦江,偶尔他也会露出对上海的不理解:“城市里哪来这么多 台风天呢? ”聊到上一次回家乡,他兴致勃勃地掏出手机给我看起无暇的雪山和辽阔的 土地:“你看我们那还有这么漂亮的地方!我以前从来没有去过啊。”这是他近五年来第 一次回家乡,也是第一次看到家乡著名的山和水。
和阿迪力一起从家乡出发的还有两个朋友,其中一位名叫阿 卜杜如苏力,这是他刚 刚离开家乡的第一年。在如苏力看来,他乡最令人无法忍受的就是异乡人:陌生的服饰、 无法应对的语言、奇怪的生活习惯等等。他喜欢呆在烤馕的窑前,躲在油烟的背后,这 样不必和人打交道,也不用去理解任何人。他自豪于自己烤串的手艺,时不时拉着我去 拍他刚刚烤出来的串,只有这时候他才会暂时从白烟后绕出来,由着自己开心大笑。
四月十号是维吾尔族的肉孜节,每逢春耕的第一天,人们会从日出起不进食,直至 黄昏后,家庭朋友们齐聚一堂,在晚饭大吃一顿,以庆祝我们就此开启了新的一天。而 对于他乡的阿迪力等人来讲,这是属于家乡的团聚节日,是为数不多与家乡拉近一些距 离的时刻。“那天很开心,我们自己做了很多家里的菜,有很多的照片。大家笑得很开 心,我们喝了很多酒,跟在家不一样,我们拥抱在一起。”如苏力和我讲起他乡的第一 个肉孜节时,平日紧张的普通话都变得轻松顺畅了许多,当晚的许多场景都在回忆里被 侃侃而谈,落在真实的处境中闪烁:“...这里生活很窄,大家都很疲倦,我觉得(那天 晚上)很好。”
疆味串的第一年,阿迪力打算离开上海,回到北京开店。“回北京生活习惯些,在 这边还是很难适应啊。”阿迪力说道,我笑着说他生意越做越大,他无言以对,随后莫 名聊起了动漫。阿迪力热爱动漫,对于《混沌武士》尤为喜爱,他和我描述起印象最深 刻的剧情——在经历了混乱暴力的开头,鸡飞狗跳的过程后,主角们到达了云淡风轻的 结局:主角团站在三岔路口,互相告别,踏上各自的旅程,并期待下次的相遇。如同爆 炸头武士一般,他也走在一段不长也不短的旅途结尾,和小径丛生的三岔路口上。
Xinjiang-style heat wave
The time when Jiang Weizhan came to Lingyan South Road was nearly a year, which was also the first year that Mi Hot Adili came to Shanghai. In our conversations, the capricious weather and bland Shanghai food were often mentioned, and he would always recall the big fish and meat when he studied in Beijing, and then talk in standard Mandarin about Beijing's barbecue, friends and dry weather.
Adili, who is the same age as me, claimed that he graduated only one year earlier than me. After graduating from a business major in Beijing, he went through the postgraduate entrance examination and placement, and adjusted his status to engage in the catering industry in Shanghai. "As soon as I arrived in Shanghai, I thought I should bring naan and barbecue here." When asked about his initial decision, Adili felt natural: "Because it is something from my hometown, a part of me and a special feature." Entering from the restaurant, the walls are covered with Uighur geometric patterns, like pixel snowflakes floating down from the ceiling, frozen in the strong smell of Xinjiang barbecue, and then blackened. From the tablecloth to the round arch bridge with the ceiling, the restaurant is strongly decorated in Uighur style, and it feels like it is in a different place. On the table, Adili and I ate our own barbecue, he was very happy and frank, we talked from the ancient buildings in Beijing to the Huangpu River in Shanghai, and occasionally he would reveal his incomprehension of Shanghai: "Where do so many typhoons come from in the city?" Talking about the last time he returned to his hometown, he excitedly took out his mobile phone to show me the flawless snow mountains and vast land: "You see we have such a beautiful place!" I've never been there before." It was the first time he had returned to his hometown in nearly five years, and the first time he had seen its famous mountains and water.
Along with Adili, there were two friends who traveled from his hometown, one of whom was Abduru Suli, who was just leaving his hometown for the first year. In Su Li's opinion, the most intolerable thing in a foreign country is the foreign people: strange clothes, unable to cope with the language, strange living habits and so on. He likes to stay in front of the naan kiln, hiding behind the smoke, so that he doesn't have to deal with people, and he doesn't have to understand anyone. He was proud of his skewer, and from time to time he dragged me to take a picture of the skewer he had just baked, and only then would he come out from behind the white smoke for a while and let himself laugh.
April 10 is the Uyghur cumin Festival. On the first day of spring ploughing, people do not eat from sunrise until dusk. Families and friends gather together and have a big dinner to celebrate that we have started a new day. For Adili and other people from abroad, this is a hometown reunion festival, one of the few moments to get closer to their hometown. "It was a great day, we made a lot of home dishes and there were a lot of photos. We had a lot of laughs, we drank a lot, and unlike at home, we hugged each other." For example, when Su Li and I talked about the first meat festival in a foreign country, the normally tense Mandarin became much easier and smoother, and many scenes of the night were talked about in memories and fell into the real situation: "... Life is very narrow here, everyone is tired, I think [the night] was good."
In his first year, Adili decided to leave Shanghai and return to Beijing to open a shop. "Go back to Beijing and get used to it. It's still hard to adapt here." Adili said, I smiled and said that his business is getting bigger and bigger, he was speechless, and then inexplicably talked about animation. Adili loves animation, especially for Chaos Warriors, he and I described the most impressive plot - after experiencing the chaotic violence at the beginning, the process of flying dogs, the protagonists reached the end of the wind: the protagonists stood at the fork of the road, said goodbye to each other, set foot on their own journey, and look forward to the next encounter. Like the Samurai Blaster, he was at the end of a journey that was neither too long nor too short, and at a fork in the road full of footpaths.